El Calafate

El Calafate

What did we learn about Argentina during our three-week trip? We learned so much, including that Argentinians love Messi and Maradona (soccer players); everyone walks around drinking Yerba Mate (a traditional herbal tea drink) in special mate gourds. Argentinians love their local steaks (better than U.S. beef), their world-famous Malbec wine, beautiful Buenos Aires European-style architecture, weekend street fairs, and Tango street performers …the list is long.

Argentina is at the end of the world; it’s a 10-hour flight from Miami. But it is worth traveling the long distance because there is something special about the country and the people who live there.

We fell in love with Buenos Aires and decided that we could live there indefinitely. People are very friendly and hospitable and three times in Buenos Aires, even if the person didn’t speak English, they stopped when they saw us looking at our phone to see if we were ok and whether we needed help with directions.

We also loved Argentinian cuisine, which is world famous, and the coffee scene is great. There was a coffee shop on every block serving fancy espresso drinks and media lunas (small croissants).

We loved the nature in Argentina. There are hot, steamy jungles and waterfalls in the northeast (Iguazu Falls), and cold, icy Patagonia in the south with the Andes mountains and glaciers. The distance between destinations in Argentina is vast. From Buenos Aires, Iguazu is a 2-hour flight to the north and Patagonia is a 4-hour flight south.

We debated whether to leave Buenos Aires to go to Patagonia because there was so much to see in the capital city.

Finally, we decided to make the trip south to El Calafate and our first view of the glaciers from the walkways (called balcones) was unbelievable. The color of the ice – dazzling blue – is just, “wow.”

El Calafate

El Calafate is a charming Patagonian town, near the southern border with Chile. It is known for its natural beauty and is the gateway to Los Glaciares National Park.

A street with cars and buildings in the background Description automatically generated

The main reason visitors come to El Calafate is the Southern Patagonian Ice Field or Hielo Continental Patagónico Sur (in Spanish). It is one of the largest ice fields in the world, covering a vast expanse of rugged terrain. It covers parts of both Argentina and Chile and is contains glaciers, snow-capped peaks, and remote wilderness.

One of the largest and best-known glaciers is the awe-inspiring Perito Moreno Glacier. The glacier’s ice walls, which reach 240 feet, provide a breathtaking show as huge chunks of ice break into Lake Argentino. It is one of the few glaciers in the world that is still advancing.

A glacier next to a body of water Description automatically generated

Hiking in the national park to the glaciers is a popular excursion. Of course, there are many different hiking routes and ice trekking options. However, we were disappointed that people 65 and older are not permitted to trek on the glacier. We explained that we are fit and feel 20 years younger than our ages but our passports showed our birthdates and we were not permitted to sign up for an ice trek with a guide.

Boat Excursion

So, we decided to take a boat ride to see glaciers up close. This was a great excursion for people young and old and the boat took us close to two remote glaciers, the Spegazzini and Upsala (South America’s largest glacier).

A person and person standing in front of a glacier Description automatically generated

We had close-up views of these glaciers as well as large icebergs that continuously form after breaking free from the glaciers.

Icebergs in the water Description automatically generated

It was a nice, relaxing excursion and we were able to avoid the long hikes on very rough terrain to get near the glaciers.

Kayak Excursion

The next day we took a kayak excursion. After arriving at the National Park, our first task was to change into dry suits and learn to paddle in the icy, choppy, and windy waters.

A group of people in kayaks on a rocky beach Description automatically generated

Fourteen people and 3 guides entered the cold water together. We spent two hours paddling close to the Perito Moreno Glacier and often had to paddle out of the way of advancing icebergs floating toward us. Kayaking allowed us to get remarkably close to the glacier and we could see how massive this glacier is. It was truly a great experience.

A couple of people in kayaks on water Description automatically generated

Patagonia Cuisine

After our kayak adventure, we returned to the town of El Calafate. One of the culinary specialties in this region of Argentina is Patagonian lamb which is roasted over a charcoal grill and served with traditional chimichurri sauce, pureed leeks, and a side dish of char-roasted vegetables.

A lamb over a fire Description automatically generated

A plate of food on a table Description automatically generated

A restaurant with tables and chairs Description automatically generated

We ordered lamb braised in a Malbec sauce. The meat fell off the bone and was delicious. Argentinian Malbec wine is fantastic – it goes perfectly with meat. However, we were dismayed to be the first patrons in the restaurant at 8:00 p.m. because we never got used to the Argentina custom of eating dinner at 9 or 10. El Calafate is located so far south that it was still light outside at 10:30 when we walked back to our hotel.

A plate of meat and vegetables Description automatically generated

After 3 days in Patagonia, we returned to Buenos Aires where we spent another 5 days. We felt there was so much more to explore.

 

4 thoughts on “El Calafate

  1. Argentina sounds wonderful and I really enjoy reading about your adventures! Be safe and Merry Christmas to you both!🎄🤶🏻🎁

  2. Wow! What a wonderful journey you have been on. Thank you for sharing some of your experiences with us. The unexpected age restriction preventing you from the ice trek is unfortunate….knowing that the two of you are much more capable than many of the younger individuals. Happy holidays, and best wishes for safe travels ahead. I look forward to your next entry.

  3. Thank you for sharing your adventures. Blessings for the 2024 for you and your family. 😇

Comments are closed.

Comments are closed.