Argentinians really know how to eat. The food is delicious with influences from Spanish and Italian immigrants who arrived during the 19th and 20th centuries. Common dishes include Asado (Argentinian barbeque), Empanadas, Milanese (thin slices of beef, chicken, or veal, breaded and fried until golden), and Provoleta (a delicious, gooey baked-provolone cheese), Chimichurri sauce (made with parsley, oregano, garlic, olive oil, and vinegar), Pizza and Dulce de Leche (similar to caramel),

But Argentina is best known for its high-quality beef. Several times during our stay in Buenos Aires, we had Asado accompanied by Chimichurri and roasted vegetables. Each time, the meat was tender and very flavorful. You can find restaurants that serve Asado on almost every corner and we saw people eating these hearty foods for lunch and dinner.

For snack lovers, empanadas – a meat or cheese-stuffed pastry – are also extremely popular. The empanadas are stuffed with many different fillings including vegetables, cheese, ground meat, or sweet dulce de leche sauce. To identify the varieties, many restaurants use unique pastry shapes for each one. They are all delicious.

We have had our share of empanadas during our travels throughout South America. But the best empanadas we ever had were right here in Buenos Aires. We found a little restaurant that only served empanadas which we ate several times for a quick meal or snack.

Another popular dish is Milanesa. This dish, reminiscent of Italian Milanese, consists of thin slices of beef, chicken, or veal, breaded, and fried until golden. It’s often served with a squeeze of lemon and eaten with potatoes or in a sandwich called “milanesa a la napolitana,” topped with tomato sauce and melted cheese.

There are European-style bakeries on every corner so desert was easy to find. The most popular sweets usually contain dulce de leche (sweet caramel sauce).

Gnocchi Day

The 29^th of each month is known as Gnocchi Day (Dia de Ñoquis). We were lucky enough to be in Buenos Aires at the right time to participate in this monthly tradition.

The story of the tradition is simple. The 29th of the month was just before payday — people were paid on the first of the month — so by the end of the month, money was tight and all that was left were potatoes and flour. Gnocchi, or ñoquis, were the perfect solution because they are filling and cheap.

Some restaurants only serve gnocchi on this day, and many offer gnocchi specials. We went to an Italian restaurant that participated in this tradition. We were handed a menu that offered three different gnocchi dishes and we selected Gnocchi Souffle La Parolaccia. It was the best gnocchi we have ever had and it almost melted in our mouths, so soft yet firm.

Mate

Mate Tea is to Argentina as Tequila is to Mexico. Mate is an herbal infusion made from dried leaves of the yerba mate plant. It is served in a gourd with a metal straw (bombilla) and can be shared among a group of people. Mate is a symbol of friendship and hospitality and is consumed throughout the day.

Mate has its own etiquette and rituals and it is important to know who prepares the mate, how to pass the mate, how to thank the mate, and what not to do (don’t stir the mate). It can be sweetened with sugar or honey, or flavored with herbs or citrus peels. The grocery store shelves are filled with assorted brands and mate blends. We tried mate and realized it’s an acquired taste. So, we stayed with coffee and lattes.

Cooking Class

One thing we like to do when we visit a new country or city is to take a cooking class to learn, first-hand, how to prepare some of the traditional dishes. So, one morning we showed up at a restaurant to learn to cook with nine other tourists from all parts of the world.

The menu consisted of empanadas filled with ground beef, chimichurri (a dipping sauce for empanadas or any type of meat), chipas (small buns made from yuca flour and cheese), humita en olla (creamy corn and pumpkin soup), and for dessert, dulce de leche crepes.

It was a day-long class, where we savored food, wine, traditional alcoholic beverages, and mate. While we cooked, we learned about the culinary traditions not only of Argentina but of the countries of our fellow cooks. By the end of the class, we had formed friendships with our classmates.

Notables

Each Argentina neighborhood has small shops, bakeries, butchers, produce stands, and restaurants – all different from the ones before. There is a thriving café culture and many historic cafes, restaurants, and bars called “notables.” They are found in all neighborhoods of the city and are part of the culture and history of Buenos Aires. These notables are supported by the city government because of their age, tradition, architectural, or cultural value. There are more than seventy notables in Buenos Aires.

Their interiors are preserved and when we passed through their doors, we felt like we were stepping back in time.

We truly enjoyed the literary culture, small traditional restaurants, food stands, and historic architecture of this laid-back country. And, what’s not to like? Argentines are handsome. The beef is the best in the world. The wine is in a class of its own. Argentina’s countryside is as spectacular as Switzerland, Spain, or the United States. They have the best soccer players in the world. The Pope is Argentine. And the sexiest dance in the world, the Tango, was born in the immigrant slums of Buenos Aires.

We enjoyed sitting in cafes and relaxing. We loved that the city is alive, with flea markets in every neighborhood and squares full of restaurants. Above all, we loved the culture and how the people made us feel welcome.

We were concerned about two things.  First, it’s a very long trip because it sits far away at the bottom of the world. And, secondly, on December 10^th, while we were still in Buenos Aires, the new president assumed his office. Immediately he began making drastic, economic changes.

It has been reported that inflation may be close to 200% before the economy turns around. Argentinians are concerned but hopeful. Many told us, “We will wait and see”. We hope for the best.

As we entered the Buenos Aires Internal Airport to return to the United States, we looked back at how different it was in this airport the last time we left Argentina during the pandemic. Today the airport is busy and thriving. We hope that Argentina can continue on this course.