We left Santiago and are now enjoying the coastal towns of Viña del Mar and Valparaiso, Chile. Although these towns are next to each other on the Pacific coast, they are quite different.

Valparaiso

Valparaiso (Paradise Valley) was once a major port city in Chile. It is known for its steep, hilly neighborhoods, narrow streets, colorful buildings and funiculars that take you to the top of the hillside neighborhoods.

It was known as the “Jewel of South America” because its port was an important stop for goods traded between Europe and Asia before the Panama Canal was complete. Today this revitalized but gritty bohemian town is filled with artists, restaurants, and beautiful street art.

The city has numerous neighborhoods each sprawling over its own hill. There are 19 funiculars (10 are still operational) dating back to 1910 that connect the hilltop neighborhoods to central downtown near the port.

Unfortunately, Valparaiso, like Santiago, has been a hot spot for demonstrations and civil unrest for the past four months. People in Valparaiso demonstrate in front of the House of Legislators which was moved from Santiago, the capital, during the coup d’état of 1973. In an effort to decentralize government, the president’s palace and government offices stayed in Santiago while the House of Legislators moved to Valparaiso.

There are damaged buildings, boarded up businesses and graffiti everywhere in the central part of the city. From one of the hills overlooking central Valparaiso, we could see businesses with collapsed roofs due to the fires set during the demonstrations.

Viña del Mar

In contrast, Viña del Mar (Vineyard by the Sea) is a popular resort community for Chileans and tourists. The town is filled with apartments and condominium buildings for retirees and summer homes for Chileans. Beaches and parks line the coast.  There are all types of restaurants, a casino, and live music.

We are staying in Viña del Mar. Our apartment is 5 blocks from the beach and walking distance to many coffee shops, restaurants, and stores. We find life here is just a little slower and more relaxed than life in the big city of Santiago.

Almost every evening we walk to the beach and the parks where we find stands selling almost anything you can think of. It’s nice running along the boardwalk in the mornings along with dozens of other people running, walking, biking, and rollerblading.

As in every city where we have traveled, the people here are friendly and helpful. Many are eager to strike up a conversation with us. If only our Spanish was good enough to carry on lengthy conversations.

Festival Internacional de la Canción de Viña del Mar 

The annual Viña del Mar Music Festival takes place in the 3^rd week of February at the Quinta Vergara Amphitheater. The festival started in 1960 and is the oldest and largest music festival in Latin America. It marks the end of summer in Chile. This year, Ricky Martin performing on the outdoor stage Sunday night kicked off the five-day festival.

But Viña del Mar and the Festival did not escape the anti-government protests. Prior to Ricky Martin’s performance, demonstrators protested at the nearby O’Higgins Hotel where most of the musicians were staying. Protestors set fire to at least a half-dozen cars in front of the hotel. Police evacuated guests at the hotel and used water cannons to disperse the protestors.

We were several blocks away and could see the dark smoke from the burning cars. Several helicopters were circling the area and we heard sirens in the night. The next night, we saw police mobilizing in anticipation of another night of demonstrations.

We stay away from the demonstrations and feel safe here. We plan to spend two weeks in this coastal town enjoying lazy walks to the beach and our strolls through the neighborhoods and parks. The ocean currents keep the temperature a perfect 65-75 degrees.

With a quick Uber ride, we have been able to explore other coastal towns. In addition to Viña del Mar and Valparaiso, just 4 miles north is a smaller beachside town of Reñaca. And a short walk north of Reñaca is the town of Concon with its famous sand dunes and upscale restaurants.

One day we biked to Reñaca on the boardwalk and bike paths along the coast.  It was a perfect ride with the sun and breeze from the ocean.

Food of Chile

In our neighborhood, there are many restaurants and coffee shops and we can take a short walk to enjoy some of the town’s cuisine. We enjoy the fresh seafood from the Pacific Ocean found in most restaurants.

One of our favorite dishes is the Pulpo del Parrilla (Grilled Octopus). Another great dish was seafood prepared in different ways served on a large platter.

One of the iconic local dishes is Chorrillana. This dish starts with a base of French fries, then is layered with grilled onions, followed by grilled meat and topped off with a fried egg. It’s big enough for 2 or 3 people to share.

And of course, Chile has Empanadas that are good for on-the-go eating. The empanadas of Chile are much larger than the empanadas of Colombia. There are numerous varieties but the most popular are empanadas stuffed with cheese, which are deep-fried, and empanadas stuffed with meat, potatoes, and gravy, baked to a golden brown.

We are enjoying our stay on the coast and have met some wonderful people. One couple we met on a tour was from Golden Valley, Minnesota who live less than 10 blocks from where we lived.

We met another couple from Germany whose daughter-in-law is from a small town in Iowa. And the owners of Geno’s Pizza are an American couple who live in our apartment building. They are our go-to people when we have questions or need information.

After this, we move to southern Chile to explore a small part of Patagonia. But we will miss these coastal towns and the people that make these towns enjoyable